On the road with Alisa.
I’ve always loved to travel, but now that I’m approaching retirement, it’s even more important to me.
Travel – meeting new people and visiting with friends and family, experiencing cultural differences, eating new foods, and standing in awe of nature – adds so much to my life.
“Wherever you go becomes part of you somehow”….Anita Densai
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrowmindness”..Mark Twain
Wisconsin and Lake Michigan
My dear friend, Joanna, invited me to visit her in Wisconsin. I jumped at the opportunity but had no idea what a travel expert Joanna is! She has developed quite the itinerary! I’m on my way, so excited, and so appreciative of Joanna and her husband, Edwin!
7/25 Around town
We began our day at the Ft Atkinson Library, a beautiful combination of the old and the new, and with a spotlight on their ‘oh so inviting’ children’s section, complete with a tree to climb and sit in, murals, and art activities. A short walk away and past stately homes and gardens, we entered the Hoard History museum and saw exhibits about the mysterious Indian Mounds and Effigies in the area; about Chief Black Hawk, who made a valiant stand against being removed from native lands; the 1841 Foster House (donated to be a museum and now with an addition); and the national diary shrine. National Poet and local resident, Lorine Niedecker, is featured at the library and her poetry appears as murals on the sides of downtown buildings,
We visited the office of Bos Designs, located in a beautiful rural area on property Edwin’s father purchased years ago when he started the business. Harman, Edwin’s brother and his wife, Jennie, live next door with their 3 sons. Sitting on their porch, you look out to two ponds, lush greenness, a mountain, gardens, and a pool. Such nice people!
Then we headed to Watertown to see the first kindergarten in the US, started by Margarethe Schurz. It was a German language kindergarten based on the teachings of Froebel.
It is next to the Octagon House.
7/26-Two Rivers
Today, Edwin and Joanna took me on a gorgeous scenic drive. We began with a tour of Taliesin, Frank Lloyd Wright’s home. Such beautiful design, less than perfect construction (e.g., unsealed windows, sagging supports), tragedy, strong family, respect of the land, balanced living, and drive.
Back down at the hotel, my good friend, Juli, pulled up with her husband. They have been visiting one of their sons outside of Seattle and staying in their camper. Jerry is heading to visit a friend, and Juli is continuing with me.
After lunch, we drove along the Wisconsin River, following it to where it meets the Mississippi River. The views from Pike’s Peak in Iowa were spectacular! After a short hike, we continued to follow the Mississippi and headed to LaCrosse.
7/27 – Lacrosse
Yes – the name is connected to the game. The first settlers picked up the game from the Native Americans in the area.
The city was and is an important area because the Mississippi River runs through it. Cruise ships come through, traveling from just north of LaCrosse to New Orleans. It is a hip, fun town with a beautiful park by the river.
We stayed at the Charmont Hotel, location of the first building in LaCrosse, and former home of a chocolate factory. Beautiful hotel, and we had a nice dinner in their restaurant. Afterwards, we enjoyed some jazz at the Starlight Lounge!
Sunday morning – After walks in the park by the river and exploring a gorgeous international garden installed by the Rotary, we headed to Granddad’s Bluff overlooking LaCrosse. The bluff provides an amazing view of the expansive waters joining near and around Lacrosse – Mississippi River, Wisconsin River, and LaCrosse River.
After a good breakfast at Damn Tasty, we headed to Madison, the state capitol.
The capitol building in Madison is impressive! There are 43 different kinds of granite and marble from many states and countries, and the art work is beautiful! Wisconsin also has a Supreme Court with one man and the rest women!
Next a visit to Monona Terrace, on the Lake Monona, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and built after his death. It is quite impressive to be the only state capital on an isthmus between two large lakes. The University of Wisconsin-Madison, Edwin’s Alma mater, sits on Lake Mendato. How fun to have the student union on a lake!
Dinner was at an amazing restaurant, Sardine, on Lake Monona,
7/28-Headed North
I thought I knew what a lake was until I visited Wisconsin and saw the expansiveness of water; now we are headed to Lake Michigan!
Edwin stayed behind as Joanna and I headed north. Lots of wild animals today! After going by the Green Bay stadium, we made our way up the peninsula to Door County. Our first stop was Sturgeon Bay eastern canal (man made canal to allow ships to move across the peninsula) and the lighthouse by it. It sits out at the end of a long concrete walkway. There were gulls, white pelicans, and cormorants close by, but the highlight was a mink that made its way down the walkway right up to Joanna and I before disappearing through a hole that went to the water! It was beautiful!
After lunch on the rooftop at Mezzanine in Egg Harbor, we headed to Peninsula Park, jutting at into Lake Michigan on the east side. This side has high bluffs and sandy shores. The east side has low rocky shores. At one stop to look at the view, an eagle, chased by a hawk, swooped down in front of us! We visited another lighthouse and Eagle’s Tower for amazing views before heading to our hotel, the Hillside Inn, in Ephraim.
The Hillside Inn is beautiful and sits by the water. We have a second story deck overlooking the water and facing the sunset. After settling in, we headed out again – across the Peninsula to explore Cana Island where another lighthouse sits. Sometimes there is a land bridge to the island (there was today)and other times you walk through the water. Bunnies everywhere, and we saw a deer. We climbed the 99 steps up to the top of the lighthouse and walked along the shore.
Next, we headed to the Ridges (naturally made inundations where water pools) and hiked through the area with lots of wild flowers and two more lighthouses, before having another great meal at Chives in Bailey’s Harbor.
7/29 Door County
Off to Washington Island, taking the car on the ferry. We stopped at a Lutheran church modeled after a Swedish church built in 1150 – no nails, lots of Nordic symbols, gorgeous wood and a labyrinth outside; climbed another tower for a view of the island; ate and shopped at a lavender farm; and headed back over the water.
On the way back to Ephraim, we stopped at Island Orchard Cider and enjoyed a flight of cider. Sour cherry (being harvested now) was my favorite and pear was Joanna’s favorite. We left with a few bottles to take back!
Another stop was at Seaquist Orchards Farmers Market where we loaded up on fresh sour cherries, jams, etc. We also stopped in Sister Bay for gelato and a little shopping. We gathered good cheeses, some charcuterie, veggies, and a baguette for an easy dinner on our deck. Another gorgeous sunset and a bottle of Sancerre capped another great day!
7/30 -Grand Hotel
It is indeed grand!
Today was a long driving day as we headed back down the Door County peninsula and then back north in Wisconsin to Michigan and around Lake Michigan and over to Lake Huron. We made it to St Ignace where we caught the ferry to Mackinac Island. There are no cars on the island – only bikes and lots of horses and carriages.
The hotel opened in 1887, and RB neighbors, Rich and Barbara Bos had a hand in renovations and design for 25 years. It has the largest porch of any hotel, and strives to maintain an atmosphere of “timeless sophistication”, requiring “elevated evening attire” after 6:30 pm.
We had a 5 course dinner in the dining room and enjoyed a drink and music in the Cupola Bar – which has an amazing view of the water and the island.
7/31 – Lake Huron to Traverse City
What trip to Mackinac Island would be complete without a horse carriage ride! Beautiful Clydesdales took us all around the island. Interesting facts: 80% of the island is state park (that began as the second national US park); MI governor has a summer home there; the cemetery at the top was moved there from Main Street to make it more ‘palatable’ for tourists; the Grand Hotel was built in 3 months with over 600 workers working nonstop in two 12 hour shifts (later it was doubled in size on the back of the hotel); there are 600 horses on the island and 500 year-round residents; current mayor has been mayor for 50 years; and Ft Mackinac was founded in the American Revolution and remained active until 1895.
After our tour and grabbing some fudge (evidently Michigan is famous for their fudge!), we took the ferry back to St Ignacio and headed over the beautiful Mackinac Bridge, a suspension bridge that connects upper and lower Michigan. We made our way to Traverse City, sitting on the east and west arms of Grand Traverse Bay, a 32 mile long bay of Lake Michigan. Great hotel, Delamar, with an amazing restaurant, Artisan. Farm to table with a very impressive wine list. And speaking of wine list, did you know that Traverse City is known for its cherry production and wineries!
8/1 – Sleeping Bear Dunes
Huge sand dunes near a lake??? Yes!
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park on Lake Michigan includes miles of sandy beaches, bluffs 450’ ft above the lake, lush forests, inland lakes, and picturesque farm homesteads. Although the sky was hazy (from smoke for Canada wild forest), the water was an incredible clear, light blue. It is an incredible place!
We hiked the Pyramid Point Trail and had a picnic in the park. We also visited a historic community built by a visionary in the 1800s, complete with a general store, a resort hotel, a blacksmith, employee housing, a canning factory, and wood shipping business. The general store and the hotel are operated by the park service, and park staff live in some of the housing.
On the way back to Traverse City, we stopped at Moomers homemade ice cream, recommended by my work colleague, Ann (she’s from this area) and voted as the best ice cream in the US.
After a little shopping in the river district, including a street fair, we had another fabulous dinner at Noble!
8/2 – Ferry return
Traverse City continued to impress this morning – wonderful lakeside walk and park, an antique boat show on the river, and a farmers market with table after table of organic fruits and vegetables and foods. How does a city with a population of 16,000 pull all of this off – even if you count the 150,000 in the four surrounding counties?
We headed to Muskegon and caught the fast ferry to Milwaukee – 2 1/2 hours rather than the almost 6 to drive around Lake Michigan. It was a hazy day and looked very mysterious out on the water where, even on a clear day, you cannot see any shore in the middle of the lake.
Dinner was in Milwaukee at the Bartolotto Lakeside Bistro, a beautiful and delicious French restaurant on the lake. Back to Joanna and Edwin’s home for the night.
8/3 – To Banff
After sorting (Joanna is taking a few things via car back to RB for me) and repacking, we headed to Chicago O’Hare. On the way, we had a great lunch at a Polish restaurant- a sour soup and pierogis. O’ Hare was packed and slow, but made it through security to find my flight delayed. It was late when I made it to Banff and I can’t wait to see my surroundings tomorrow!
8/4 – First Day in Canada
This was the view I woke up to this morning!
The first national park in Canada is across from the Rimrock Resort. Banff National Park. It was established in 1885 and the 3rd national park in the world – behind Yellowstone in the US and Royal National park in Australia – and was created to protect the hot springs and wildlife. I walked up to the entrance to the hot springs pool, open daily 10am to 10pm.
We took a hike by the Bow River, complete with a waterfall, an art in nature exhibition, and beautiful views. While sitting by the river, we watched as – correction from a friend that knows, not elk, but 3 mule deer went through the lake!
We explored the beautiful Fairmont hotel and attended high tea. Such a gorgeous place!
Later we grabbed our swimsuits and went to the hot springs – along with a LOT of other people. There was hardly room to stand in the pool. We’re hoping to feel amazing tomorrow!
8/5 – In & About Banff
I headed out early to take a walk through the woods near the hotel. Beautiful trees, wild flowers, moss, and birds surrounded me. So peaceful. Great way to start the day!
After breakfast, Juli and I headed to downtown Banff, did some hiking and shopping, and Jerry, Juli’s husband, on his way back to Seattle to visit with his sons, stopped and had a late lunch/early dinner with us. Great meal out on the sidewalk at Brazen.
All the hotel and restaurant people I’ve met in Canada have been so lovely! Many are Canadian but others are on work visas from other countries – Australia, Scotland, Philippines, etc. They ask questions, offer suggestions, and are so positive. I will definitely be returning to Canada!
8/6 – Train to Vancou- ver
Early morning pick up to take us to board the Rocky Mountaineer. An impressive and long train with about 15 riding cars with glass dome roofs, holding 40-50 people each with kitchen and dining cars between each, not to count the engines, equipment, etc. cars. All the staff are extremely well trained, polite, informative, and often funny.
Although the landscape was the main focus, the train is also known for their chef and foods – and there was always food! And unlimited drinks! And there was lots of drinking by quite a few! Two meals and several snacks were served each day. Meals were in the dining cars with white table cloths and napkins and a menu with 6-7 options and desserts to choose from.
There was a lot to see on day 1. The Rockies are so impressive, and we also passed 7 lakes – Bow, Kicking Horse, Columbia, Beaver, illecilleqaet, Eagle, and S Thompson.
We were not too long in our travels when we crossed the continental divide – a hydrological divide in the Americas that separates waters flowing into the Atlantic and Arctic from waters flowing into the Pacific. Amazing to think about.
The Canadian Pacific Railway began building the transcontinental railroad in 1881 and the last spike was driven in 1885.
We also traveled the spiral staircase. When building the railroad, there was an area with a very steep grade and trains kept getting derailed when going down. Using an approach from Switzerland, they built tracks that doubled back – think of a cursive L we were told. It cost $2.2 million in the mid-1880s, 500 people started working at the top and 500 people started working at the bottom (and only 6” off when met in the middle), and 75 boxcars of dynamite were used to build the staircase.
We went by Sicamous, the houseboat capital of the world. The lake in the town is warmer due to geothermal activity. You need to book your houseboat a year in advance. You can have food and booze delivered to your houseboat!
Our hosts for the trip were Brando (funny with a very dry sense of humor), Kelsey, Jonas, and Colwyn – all great.
We stopped in Kamloops (meaning meeting of two waters – N and S Thompson Rivers), a college and mineral extraction town. It is also known as the tournament capital of Canada as more than 100 sporting tournaments are held there yearly. Kamloops was in the news a few years back in not a good way. The bodies of 215 First Nation (their term of indigenous people) were discovered at the site of what use to be a Residence School, schools run by police and churches to separate indigenous parents and children and indoctrinate the children into the church. Over Canada and the US, over 10,000 bodies of children have been found on the grounds of ‘residence schools’. The last ‘school’ was closed in 1996. Canada does not hide any of the facts around First Nation people, and they have made lots of efforts to recognize and address the wrongs. Many times over the two day train ride, we heard about First Nations.
We were divided up between several hotels in Kamloops around 7:30 pm for the night.
8/7 – Into the city
On day 2 on the train, the terrain changed – we left the Rockies and moved into semi-desert. Most of the day, we followed the Fraser River and saw lots of eagles and osprey.
This stretch has a lot to offer. It includes the largest salmon spawning area in the Pacific Northwest. There are rapids referred to as ‘the jaws of death’, rated 3-5 out of a high of 6 in white water rapid ratings. We passed Rainbow Canyon, a rock shear of red, gold, and purple rocks highlighting the various minerals like copper, sulphur, and gold.
We also passed Cisco Crossing. Two railway companies, not agreeing to share tracks, built on opposite sides of the canyons from each other and had to build different bridges to cross. One used a cantilever style and the other a truss style.
Fraser (namesake of the river) led the work on the railway, and in one area, the area they blasted resulted in narrowing of the water, making it more fast moving. For their work in getting through, Fraser wrote in his diary, “surely we have been through the gates of hell.” The area remains called Hell’s Gate.
After another day filled with food and beautiful surroundings, we arrived in Vancouver!
8/8 – Victoria
Another early morning, starting with a shuttle bus to a tour bus and then the ferry to Vancouver Island and Victoria for the day.
First stop – Butchard Gardens!! Amazing labor of love started 100 years ago by Mrs Butchard as a way to fill in a quarry pit once all the rock had been removed for her husband’s cement factory. The family still owns and maintains it today. There is a sunken garden, rose garden, Japanese garden, and an Italian garden. The Butchards collected seeds from around the world on their many trips.
Afterwards, we headed to the city of Victoria, a beautiful city where the very first China Town still thrives, the city protects and helps fund updates to the original buildings built in the late 1880s, there is a strong presence of First Nations, there is a gorgeous, busy harbor, and you can find lots of good food!
Old custom house
8/9 – In the City
Today I explored the city of Vancouver. Juli headed out early, and I spent the day walking everywhere! The West End and the west end Market (full of organic produce of every kind), the beach, Gastown, and Downtown. I found a great coffee shop for the morning and a little Italian restaurant for lunch in Gastown. Downtown had interesting building and a bustling Yaletown full of young people. I loved the neighborhoods, community gardens, and flowers in the West End. Espana was a fabulous restaurant where I had dinner in the West End. With almost 25,000 steps, I think I got a good look at the city!
8/10 – Heading Home
As I head home, I’m very reflective of what this vacation meant to me. I saw a new part of the United States in Wisconsin and Michigan and was struck by its beauty and difference from the flat world I live in. In Canada, I was stuck by the goodness of the people. All of my encounters were positive – even the ones that shared the negative history. Canada has embraced making amends. Diversity, equity, inclusion, and culture are celebrated, not rejected and banned words and approaches. I so hope we in the US can learn from the Canadians!
On the Road with Alisa 